11 November 2009, Obertshausen
The current worldwide
financial crisis has led to consolidation of the international textile machinery
building sector and European companies are now faced with with a whole set of
new challenges. Here we look at how the Karl Mayer Group is reacting to this changing market
situation by developing a new generation of economical, eco-friendly warp
preparation machinery.
The setting-up of a special centre of excellence forms the
key element of the company’s increased concentration on denim products, which
brings together the full-width dyeing technology of three specialists in the Karl
Mayer Warp Preparation business unit, the former textile machinery groups of Moenus-Sucker,
the weaving preparatory operations of Benninger AG, and Ira L Griffin Sons Inc.
The machines in the Indig-O-Matic denim processing range are
complemented by the company’s new rope-dyeing technology (Fig. 1). The
processes that can be carried out on the Indig-O-Maticdyeing machine will now
be illustrated, and the machine technology required in each case will be
described.
Indig-O-Matic dyeing machine
The Indig-O-Matic dyeing machine operates using various
processes, which are all carried out using specific machine technology within
the production chain, a concept which is in keeping both with the trend towards
integrating functions and processes, as well as towards using flexible and
adaptable machine technology in weaving preparation. The following processing
sequences are normally carried out within modern production chains:
Semi-continuous, full-width dyeing/sizing
With this type of technology, which is also known as the Slasher
Dyeing Process, the denim processing sequence starts with producing or taking
delivery of the yarn packages. In the first stage, which is known as direct
beaming, the yarns are fed from a package creel (300-700 packages) and wound
next to each other on a beam. In the second stage, the yarns from 8 to 24 beams
are then taken off together under controlled tension and passed simultaneously
through the dyeing and sizing section. Following this process, the yarns are
wound next to each other onto a weaving beam.
Discontinuous hank/rope dyeing with subsequent sizing
This process, which is also known as the Rope Dyeing Process,
involves four steps and begins with producing or taking delivery of the yarn
packages. The sequence starts with ball warping, which involves winding the
yarns coming separately from the creel to form a rope, and winding the rope
onto a beam to produce the so-called ball.
During the second stage, which involves subsequent dyeing,
12 to 36 balls are taken off under a controlled tension, fed to the dyeing
section as ropes, and coiled individually into cans in this form.
The third stage involves opening out the ropes and winding
the yarns next to each other onto a beam. During sizing, which is the last
stage in the processing sequence, eight to 24 beams run together under a
controlled tension through the sizing machine. The final weaving beam is
produced by a beaming/winding process.
Karl Mayer says its Indig-O-Matic is the perfect machine
technology for carrying out both of these dyeing processes, and offers
advantages for use in specific applications to cater for the wide range of
different quality requirements demanded by the market (Fig. 2).
Creels
Karl Mayer can supply parallel, swivel-frame, magazine and
‘V’ creels for producing extremely fine menswear, womenswear and fashion
garments. All the systems are customised, and can be supplied with ancillary
equipment, such as balloon breakers, tension-equalising rods and knotting and
cutting devices. The creel can be individually configured for carrying packages
having diameters of up to 320 mm and for fewer than 1000 packages. The brake
can be selected specifically to suit the article being processed, so that the
yarn delivery equipment feeds the yarn under a controlled and regulated yarn
tension.
Ben Direct - direct beaming machines
The Ben Direct beaming machine (Fig. 3) can produce beams
having diameters of up to 1400 mm and uses an electro-hydraulic, self-centring,
toothed, sharply-tapered beam mounting. An accurate presser roller mechanism,
including an automatic kick-back facility, ensures that the beams are wound so
that they are perfectly cylindrical.
BW-T60 ball warper
Karl Mayer’s ball warper is designed for the regulated,
tension-controlled, gentle and accurate formation of ropes in the production of
beams having a maximum diameter of 1500 mm. The technical features of the BW
T-60 include pneumatically controlled disc brake technology for synchronous
braking, and the SVS integrated suction system for reliably removing dust, fly
and other loose particles, which makes an effective contribution towards
reducing contamination in wet treatment.
LCB long chain beamer
The long chain beamer (Fig. 4) is designed for the
production of beams having a maximum beam diameter of 1000 mm and has a
pneumatically operated, self-centring, toothed, sharply-tapered beam mounting.
An infinitely adjustable presser roller device, including automatic kick-back
mechanism, guarantees perfectly cylindrical beam winding, Karl Mayer says. The
rope feed, with integrated, reverse-driven compensator, enables the operating
status to be changed at high speed for constant rope tension levels. Ancillary
systems, such as a coiler can drive; single-end winder and a yarn strummer
complement the machine.
RN beam creel with tension controller
The RN beam creel comprises a shaft less beam mounting with
ball-bearing guide rollers for beams having a diameter of up to 1400 mm. A
pneumatically operated band brake decelerates the beam speed with a controlled
braking pressure, so that the yarn tension can continuously be kept constant
for speed-dependent start/stop ramping.
Vario Single and Vario Double application systems
Optimised application systems with efficient flow patterns
guarantee flexible and process-specific immersion times and lengths (1.5 m to
11.5 m) during pre-treatment and dyeing. According to Karl Mayer, the revamped
equipment offers improved handling, reduced cleaning times and stable liquor
baths during machine downtimes, thanks to an integrated system for raising the
immersion roller.
The consumption of
chemicals can also be reduced by as much as 25%, thanks to efficient liquor
exchange at the textile material. Circulation rates of above 6 x/h in the
cross-flow process guarantee completely uniform liquor mixing, and integrated,
indirect heating systems enable a range of dyeing techniques, such as reactive,
sulphur and indanthrene processes, to be used with maximum flexibility.
Ancillary systems, such as steamers and contact and
radiation driers, complete the range of equipment available for effecting dye
diffusion and penetration. Squeeze roller pairs operating at 100 kN and roller
diameters that are harmonised with each other also guarantee uniform fabric
transport, and avoid variations in the circumferential speed at the textile
material.
Quickoxidation - the quick oxidation zone
Quickoxidation is a blowing unit, which is controlled by
means of the temperature and volume of air, which accelerates the oxidation
process during indigo dyeing. The production equipment guarantees stable
climatic conditions over the whole day and at all times of the year, the
company says.
WT-3 and WT-4 wash troughs
The washing equipment works on the basis of the counter-flow
principle with integrated 3 or 4 cascade wash liquor zones, and thus conserves
resources. It also has additional intermediate squeezing units, a wash liquor
separator, fresh water spraying devices and integrated liquor circulation for
additive preparations. Squeeze roller pairs operating at 100kN and roller
diameters that are harmonised with each other are also used during washing to
optimise material transport.
SMR sizing machine
The SMR sizing machine (Fig. 5) combines Karl Mayer’s Kamcos
control technology with user-friendly operation, exact reproducibility and
first-rate process control. The CSB universal size application system, with and
without pre-wetting unit, guarantees compact yarn feed and short yarn paths,
Karl Mayer says.
According to the company, exceptional sizing quality and top
performance during weaving can be achieved with 100% yarn loading volumes or
less. The technical features of the SMR include a cylinder drier available as
‘full warp’ or ‘sectional warp’ versions (with partial Teflon coating) for
rapid drying without damaging the yarns, and tension-controlled roller
compensators. Together with weaving beam changing times of less than 3.5
minutes, these components guarantee constant production speeds.
Technical features relating to product quality and handling
Karl Mayer equips its machines with high-tech drive
technology, and to this end, has developed its own Kamcos control technology,
which provides optimum user-friendliness and reproducibility. The Kamcos technology
supplies the operators with accurate information on the tension and elongation
behaviour during and throughout all the various chemical treatment stages.
The Indigo Pilot offers additional benefits. According to
Karl Mayer, this ancillary system, with integrated online titration as well as
evaluation and calculation software, guarantees accurate starting recipes and
constant dye liquor concentrations for the compounds used, i.e. the indigo
dyes, alkalis and reducing agents. The result is a product that meets the
demands of the market perfectly, thanks to customer-oriented process monitoring
and control of the yarn tension, squeezing force and dye uptake, the company
says.
Other technical features of Karl Mayer’s machine technology
include high-resolution, accurate yarn tension measuring rollers (load cell),
conical edge yarn guides, specially designed grooved guide rollers, and an
integrated yarn compensating roller lifting system for accurate, reliable and
compact material feed through the entire machine. The result is a uniform
working width, homogeneous yarn loading, and last but not least, high machine
efficiency. Karl Mayer says that a new era in terms of product quality has thus
begun, which also minimises yarn waste.
Summary
The innovative, client-oriented Indig-O-Matic dyeing and
sizing machine is a cleverly engineered machine for economically and
ecologically producing uniformly dyed and sized weaving warps. The developments
introduced over the last few years have not significantly changed the principles
of indigo dyeing. However, the processes and existing techniques have been
systematically improved and revamped, so that optimum solutions, which conserve
resources, are now available to suit every application.
The Indig-O-Matic machinery produced by Karl Mayer and the Kamcos
control technology, which is applicable to all the machines, enable users to
determine where and how faults and weak areas in the processing chain can be
eliminated most economically. Karl Mayer says users must decide for each
individual case whether it is more economical to buy in a yarn of better
quality, or to put greater value on dealing with faults than on productivity.
It is important that any weak spots in the yarns are detected and eliminated
before the dyeing and sizing processes.
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