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New EU legislation means additional costs, says Euratex

Balance between high environmental objectives and the competitiveness of companies called for.

14th July 2023

Innovation in Textiles
 |  Brussels

Clothing/​Footwear, Sustainable

On July 12th, the European Parliament (EP) adopted its position on the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which aims to improve the environmental sustainability and circularity of products placed on the EU market, including textiles. 

Textile association Euratex, however, has expressed regret at the the EP’s approach which its says targets the textile industry in a regulation designed to be a framework legislation for all sectors, while recognising the importance of accelerating the green transition.

Representing 160,000 European textile companies, Euratex has been stressing that a successful legal framework should be based on an inclusive and feasible approach, ensuring sufficient capacity and setting a timeline for businesses to adjust.

The association welcomes the call by MEPs for tailored support to ensure a smooth transition for SMEs and that the EP will strengthen the provisions on market surveillance – a key element for ensuring a level playing field for EU companies in the Single Market.

Coherence

At the same time, the plea for legislative coherence on substances of concern and for keeping the ESPR aligned with existing chemical legislation to avoid overlapping or conflicting regulations has been overlooked, Euratex says, and social sustainability aspects should be addressed within the due diligence legislative framework.

This will create additional costs and administrative burdens for companies which already face difficulties in navigating through all ongoing policy and legislative initiatives.

Future Ecodesign requirements for textiles will have to be based on reliable data and supported by thorough analysis and impact assessments should be set out in the textile-specific Delegated Act and developed with relevant stakeholders.

As the ESPR trialogue negotiations between the EP, the Council of the EU and the European Commission unfold this Autumn, Euratex continues to stress the guiding principle of “fit-for-purpose” rules and the balance between high environmental objectives and competitiveness of companies.

Finishing plants

In addition, on Tuesday 11 July, the European Parliament’s position on Industrial Emissions Directive (IED) was adopted by MEPs, with 396 votes in favour, 102 against and 131 abstentions. Euratex has expressed concerns on this text because of the inclusion of stand-alone finishing plants in the scope of the new IED. This creates inconsistencies with the recently finalised Textile BREF (Best Available Technique) document which regulates industrial emissions for both pretreatments and finishing plants. Stand-alone finishing companies, typically SMEs, now face challenges to comply with specifications which were originally designed for different and bigger companies.

www.euratex.eu

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