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Supporting creative identity in Ukraine

Popularity of vyshyvankas – the elaborately embroidered shirts and dresses traditionally worn in the country – has now spread around the world.

30th November 2023

Innovation in Textiles
 |  Lviv, Ukraine

Clothing/​Footwear

As a member of TMAS – the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – ACG Nyström reports solid success in embroidery machine sales with the latest Tajima TMEZ models in Denmark, Norway, Sweden – and perhaps a little surprisingly, also in Ukraine.

The Tajima TMEZ range of single and multi-head embroidery machines is rapidly introducing intelligent thread management (I-TM) to the market, enabling virtually anyone to quickly and easily become an embroidery specialist.

“With I-TM, each individual design is analysed, with automatic detection of the fabric thickness, and exactly the right amount of thread needed is precisely supplied for the job,” explains ACG Nyström sales engineer Richard Carlsson. “This eliminates the need for manual thread tension adjustment, making it much easier for non-skilled operatives to obtain consistent results. The age-old problem of pulling on designs is also a thing of the past with the TMEZ machines, so all the operator needs to master is accurately positioning the fabric through the machine.”

A digitally controlled presser foot for secure fabric stability further reduces fabric fluttering, he adds, and is especially effective when working with very thick or thin fabrics, or folds of material. Fluttering can occur when a material is lifted up during embroidery, causing skipped stitches, mis-trimming and reduced quality stitching.

The TMEZ machines are fully enabled for ease of operation by Tajima DG by Pulse – the strongest embroidery software on the market.

Adding value

ACG Nyström, which marked its 100th anniversary in 2021, is a complete supplier of CAD/CAM solutions for adding value throughout the garment manufacturing processes – from product development, technical design and cutting, sewing and welding to refining with embroidery and textile printing. Its knowledge of technical production systems and processes, built up over many years of close collaboration with customers and partners, has given the company a unique role as the link between the world’s leading machine manufacturers and the garment assembly industry.

ACG Nyström reports solid success in embroidery machine sales with the latest Tajima TMEZ models. © ACG

“Our services and products are provided to a wide range of companies, from individual traders to multi-nationals, and we commit to helping them implement the most efficient and profitable overall solution in the areas of product development, garment assembly and labelling,” says ACG Nyström CEO Thomas Arvidsson.

The latest Tajima embroidery machines, he adds, are proving a game changer – especially in today’s fast moving environment when bigger companies are changing staff regularly and need expert assistance in getting machines up and running quickly and easily.

Active

Despite Russia’s ongoing assault on its country, ACG Nyström Ukraine, which was founded in 2005 and is based in Lviv, 70 kilometres from the Polish border, reports that its customers are currently extremely active and a number of new embroidery machines have been installed in the west of the country over the past year.

“Some of our customers have also been forced to leave their businesses in the east of the country and have now successfully relocated in the west, where it is relatively calm, although we are still very scared,” says ACG Nyström Ukraine managing director Halya Andrushkiv. “Keeping busy also helps to keep everybody’s minds off the situation here.”

While military badges have been one growth area, there also remains much activity in branded corporate apparel and there has meanwhile been a huge revival of interest in vyshyvankas – the elaborately embroidered shirts and dresses traditionally worn in the country.

Vyshyvankas

Since Ukraine restored its independence in 1991, the wearing of vyshyvankas has greatly increased in popularity as an expression of positive national pride and identity.

Traditionally, each region of the country established its own unique designs and vyshyvankas are adaptable enough to be worn in many styles, having been adopted by major Ukrainian brands who have successfully promoted them globally.

Vyshyvanka Day is now a national holiday held on the third Thursday of May each year, and has become a symbol of resistance against Russian aggression.

This year, many celebrities joined in to support the cause, wearing tailor-made vyshyvankas, designed by the Ukrainian embroidery brand Etnodim and others. Some of the stars wore shirts with patterns specific to the regions where their ancestors lived – Liev Schreiber’s, for instance, came from Odesa and Barbara Streisand’s from Ternopil.

“Ukrainians are now united across the country in wanting to express their national identity,” said Andrushkiv. “Vyshyvankas were traditionally associated with religious holidays such as Christmas and Easter, which were, of course, frowned upon by the USSR, as was any sign of Ukrainian identity. After 1991 they returned, and now, of course, they represent freedom for us more than ever before. And their popularity has now spread around the world.”

Supported by its parent company in Sweden, ACG Nyström Ukraine is enabling this growth worldwide, via the latest Tajima embroidery techniques and associated software.

Design possibilities

“Traditionally, all of the embroidery was by hand, and the rich designs, colours and textures have been refined over many centuries,” said Andrushkiv. “Now, with the latest Tajima technology and software solutions backed by ACG Nyström’s expert services, any traditional design – as well as new ideas for motifs reflecting today’s situation – can be recreated or further developed for mass market designs. Our expertise can streamline and ensure premium quality in the development of all finished product ideas.”

“Throughout our company, including in Ukraine, TMAS provides us with valuable support in the promotion of our services,” says Thomas Arvidsson. “There are many synergistic benefits from open discussions and co-operations with other Swedish textile technologists and TMAS members are all at the forefront of digitalisation and automation. We are happy to provide all assistance we can to Halya Andrushkiv and ACG Nyström Ukraine.”

www.tmas.se

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