Techtextil North America

Free membership

Receive our weekly Newsletter
and set tailored daily news alerts.


Collaboration results in analine-free denim

Pre-reduced indigo solution is easy to use with automated dosing.

4th April 2024

Innovation in Textiles
 |  Pratteln, Switzerland

Clothing/​Footwear, Sustainable

Archroma has partnered with Dutch denim brand G-Star RAW and Advance Denim to develop high-quality denim in authentic blue shades without the aniline impurity carried through from the synthesis of standard synthetic indigo.

In traditional denim production, some of the aniline remains bound with the indigo pigment on the fabric while the remainder is discharged during the dyeing and washing processes. This can be a problem because aniline is toxic to aquatic life and two-thirds of aniline waste currently ends up in wastewater discharge where it could potentially pollute waterways and the oceans.

Archroma developed Denisol Pure Indigo 30, a 30% pre-reduced indigo solution in response to this challenge, making it possible to produce indigo-dyed denim without aniline impurities throughout the process.

Easy to use with automated dosing, the treatment significantly reduces the water needed for preparation, washing and wastewater treatment compared to indigo grains. It also reduces hazardous chemical consumption while allowing high reproducibility and creating the authentic and deep indigo shades traditionally associated with denim.

“If we remove aniline from the indigo dyes, we also remove it from the denim production process and its wastewater, and as a result can eliminate the risk of pollution,” said Umberto De Vita, market segment director for denim at Archroma Textile Effects. “Denim that is free of aniline can also be more efficiently and sustainability recycled and reused, making circularity a more viable option.We are delighted to see trendsetters like G-Star RAW ramping up aniline-free production with Denisol Pure Indigo 30, proving that sustainability is achievable with improved productivity and authentic deep indigo shades.”

“To be here as the denim brand in the future, G-Star RAW challenges industry standards,” added Rebecka Sancho, G-Star RAW’s head of sustainability. “We push boundaries in our journey to further close the loop by using sustainable materials, clean chemistry and by designing for durability and reuse. Denisol Pure Indigo 30 helps us to minimise pollution and improve the environmental impact of our products without compromising on colour.”

G-Star RAW is working towards making 20% of its entire collection from Cradle to Cradle Certified fabrics by 2025. Its partnership with Archroma and Advance Denim contributes to this goal, since the aniline-free Denisol holds a Gold Level material health certificate from the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute. Denisol Pure Indigo 30 is also compliant with other major eco-standards and the requirements of leading retailers and brands.

 “We were the first mill in China to launch an aniline-free collection with Archroma and our new plant in the resort town of Nha Trang in Vietnam is a 100% aniline-free indigo factory,” said Amy Wang of Advance Denim MD.

Advance Denim’s aniline-free indigo collection offers various rich authentic indigo shades in different yarn characters and sustainable fibre compositions with multiple constructions.

Advance Denim, G-Star RAW and Archroma have previously collaborated to launch collections based on Archroma’s EarthColors technology, which upcycles plant waste from the herbal industry to create sustainable colorways.

Latest Reports

Business intelligence for the fibre, textiles and apparel industries: technologies, innovations, markets, investments, trade policy, sourcing, strategy...

Find out more