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Industry Talk

UK textile recycling sector under threat

Assocation calls for EPR scheme to mirror changes in the EU with processing plants stretched.

4th April 2024

Innovation in Textiles
 |  United Kingdom

Clothing/​Footwear, Sustainable

The Textile Recycling Association (TRA) says the UK’s textile recycling sector is at the point of imminent collapse due to global market challenges.

As the recognised trade association for over 75% of the UK’s used textiles collectors and sorters, the association reports fears from its members that they will be unable to collect from charity shops, recycling centres and community textile banks due to reaching capacity at processing plants.

The wider impact of the UK sector not collecting waste textiles will result in devastating environmental consequences, including microplastic pollution, water pollution and the accumulation of textile waste in landfills.

Globally, 92 million tons of textile waste are produced each year – equivalent to the height of Mount Everest every seven minutes or a rubbish truck’s worth of textiles being thrown away every second.

The used textiles industry in the UK is valued at over £1 billion, impacting sectors such as UK Charities, local waste authorities and the logistics and packaging industies. As many as one in every 25 jobs in the UK would be impacted should the industry fail.

Furthermore, European countries potentially halting textile sorting operations compound the industry’s fears for the sector’s future. France, Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Austria have all proposed bans on the export of ‘used’ textiles within the EU, signalling a significant shift in policy.

The crisis in the Red Sea which is disrupting shipping lines, has significantly escalated operational costs for textile merchants and coupled with increasing taxation from African and Asian markets and mounting pressure to curb waste exports, the industry faces immense financial strain.

Fast fashion has intensified the influx of low-quality textiles into the recycling stream which has further driven up operational costs, pushing many textile merchants to the brink of financial collapse.

The TRA is urging the UK Government to step in and regulate the industry, including the introduction of an EPR (extended producer responsibility) scheme, as will come into force across the EU from January 2025. Transparent dialogue and concerted efforts are needed to support a sustainable industry, the TRA says.

www.textilerecyclingassociation.org

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